God, today was perfect.

I body-boarded for about an hour and I'm addicted to it. Addiction began with the first perfect wave I caught, the kind that lifts you five feet into the air before breaking and carrying you 200 feet back on to the shore at top speed. After that, I couldn't get enough. It's such a "now" moment, riding on a wave. No past, no future, just the sky, wind, sea, and you. It's making love with a moment, man. I spent more than an hour in that water, and I'm dark as toast.

I've been hesitating getting a board, but now I am definitely going to get me one. Hopefully I get to learn how to surf before summer ends.

Just got home from Soldier's Beach, and my skin is still warm from all the sun I absorbed. We had a lovely family roadtrip with the Mangulabnans, and even made a short stop through Terrigal for a pizza lunch and to let Dada romp through the tidepools.

Soldier's Beach is a nice respite from crowded, polluted Bondi. A miles-long stretch of virgin beach makes Bondi look like Cubao.

Every kink and ache in my body is gone, and I'm looking forward to a shower and sleep.

My dad took most of these photos.